Honda B series Valves

[RNPoo7]

I was wondering if you guys can chime in and give me some info about stock b-series valves.

Looking for some good links to read or if you have any opinions, please feel free to share.

Few things I'm wondering about:

• How much power can they handle, reliablily.
• What are some good aftermarket replacement. Been reading up on Supertech and skunk2's valves. About to tackle other brands when I get some more free time.
• What do you look for when purchasing a "good set" of valves?

Thanks!

[Crono139]

I've got an F series.

No help here.

[RNPoo7]

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[Chubz]

honda b series valves can handle alot man. Its just the surrounding essentials like valvesprings and retainers that are the weakest link

[dohcdelsol93]

What kind of rev limit are you looking for?

In most applications you don't make power past 9K, most street turbos will have already maxed out there and unless you have a serious highcompression/crazy cam set up your all motor setups fal; flat on their face @9K too.

I don't like supertech valves because they have been known to break. OEM honda valves are great. There is not replacment for OEM honda because 90% of the after market companies out there don't have half the R&D in their products as Honda does.

If your going to rev to 8500 to 9500 rpms I'd go with some Skunk springs/retainers on your oem valves. Any more and i'd go with some skunk valves as well.

The main reason people would swap out valves with aftermarket (harder) valves is because of NOS and very aggressive cams. The more aggressive the cam the more stress the valve sees. For a street car I would stick with OEM ITR or CTR cams. These are more reliable cams than ANY aftermarket stage 1 or 2 cam including Jun, Toda, Crower, Skunk, etc...etc..... A stage one or two cam would be fine with oem valves on aftermarket springs/retainers.

If your only wanting to rev to 8500 OEM ITR valve train would be fine.

If your using nos you might want to use aftermarket valves for added protection from heat.



ITR/CTR cams have the happy meduim between of the most aggressive cam before sacrificing reliablilty. The more aggressive the cam...the more LMA/Lobe wear you will get. Highly aggressive cams have lobes that wear down within a few thousand miles. Thus needing to be changed on a regular basis, race only.

The reason the lobes wear down is because they have to make the cam out of a softer metal...this reduces the amount of wear on the head componets. Some cheaper cams like OMNI were so hard they would eat all the head componets within a few hundred miles.

The more aggressvie the cam...the more stress you put on the head...the more friction you have....the more wear you have.

A huge lobe cam puts excessive pressure on the valves aswell.....an aggressive cam requires harder/stronger valves to handle the task...aswell as heavier duty valve retainers/springs. You don't want your enigne dropping a valve.


another reason you would want to swap out valves is if you wanted more compression. A flat faced valve compared to a dished valve would make for a smaller combustion chamber. This is only for a seriously competitive engine set up where every little mod counts.

You can also swap out valve with larger aftermarket valves. With stock honda heads with stock honda cams people making well over 600whp on 84mm bore blocks (turbo set up)...i wouldn't say that flow is a big problem with honda heads so I wouldn't worry about this mod unelss you were, again, seriously competitve with your set up.

[jdmgoldcivic]

I agree with dohc, that was pretty much what I was going to say.